Heirloom Tomato Madness at Custom House Tavern

Owner Sue Kim and new Chef Perry Hendrix have taken Chicago TomatoFest to a whole new level.  They are doing so many things to help us complete the garden at Central Park and 12th place, it's hard to know where to begin so allow me to present the meal I had there last week. 

To start, take a look at the menu:

That's correct - they have FIVE dishes featuring Heirlooms from which they will donate $0.50 for each dish sold to preSERVES.  Well, that is sure generous, and we love the fact that they are sharing the story of TomatoFest with every customer who comes in the door, but how is new Chef Perry Hendrix using these heirlooms.  Quite well, actually.

Gazpacho was my first choice.  Chef Perry uses a healthy dose of garlic and a touch of heat, both of which were balanced with small cubes of watermelon, and I think a bit of watermelon juice splashed in at the end.  The result was a run of flavors that complemented the tomatoes instead diverting from the flavor. 

Chef Perry's "Bacon" at Custom House Tavern.

Next up I went for the BLT, of course, and had the good fortune of wandering into the kitchen to see what Chef was up to.  The answer was surprising to say the least.  Once a week, an entire pig's head from Slagel Farms is delivered to the restaurant.  Chef Perry debones it and then wraps the remaining skin, cartilage and muscle into a tight roll.  There is enough muscle in the cheek to make for a far less fatty cut that I expected.  After it is wrapped, the roll is then preserved for a few days in what tastes like rosemary, rosemary and more rosemary.  As a fan of rosemary, I thought the flavor was a great addition.  Instead of having a smokey, more traditional bacon flavor, this is herbal and bright.  Fascinating.

Next up, thin slices are sauteed before they go into the sandwich which is constructed with a thick piece of brioche, which I would argue is critical to absorbing the mayo and the tomato juices that one hopes will run all over hands while devouring an in season BLT.  (Is there any other kind?)

And now we come to a critical juncture.  What sort of heirlooms are being used by this talented young Chef who is brand new to the Chicago scene?  Turns out he has selected (at least on the day I was there) the Cherokee Purple, one of the most delicious of all heirlooms thanks to its rich, dark sweetness.  Well played, Sir!

Put it all together and you have a BLT that makes the trip to Custom House Tavern a must-try destination for lunch in the loop these days. 

Go for the BLT and stay for the Heirloom Tomato Infused Vodka drinks. That's right there is more.  Pictures and details follow in our next post...

How to seduce a renowned food writer (and why your neighbor might be more important)

I scream, you scream, we all scream for the attention of a few national figures who drive forward the cause of good food. 

Well, screaming might not be what we do, more like try to share the passion we have for our small local projects with people who might in turn promote the efforts of our collaborators and friends.  In our case, we hope you might have read our "Open Letter to Ruth Reichl" posted a few days ago.   Happily, Ms. Reichl noticed too and in a Twitter exchange commented: @tomatofest Yes, I saw it, and was so sorry not to get there. I will definitely make it on my next trip to Chicago!

How cool is that?  I can imagine the garden party now...

Fact is though, as flattering as one person's attention might be, and we are flattered indeed that our project appeals to Ms. Reichl's sensibilities, what is more important is the attention of our friends and neighbors here in Chicago.  Our efforts to support a garden are for and about the N. Lawndale community in particular and the health of the city in general.  Without the work of our friends and nieghbors, who gathered in April to truck in compost and long before that to draw up the plans, the garden would not be a reality.   The preSERVES program is a test run to see if Slow Food Chicago, Neighbor-Space and communities can come together to tackle a garden at a time small pieces of the problems related to food supply, urban blight, and all the nasty issues that are prone to arise in food deserts, or anywhere else with a culture of take-out, convenience-first, nutrition-second eating.   The good work being done by these people will draw more and more people into the web of delicious, locally grown food, and that is worth celebrating.

It really is cool that two national figures have embraced what we are doing, but what is spectacular is the effort on the ground. 

Want to help?  You can, one bite at a time.  Join us for our Chicago TomatoFest Potluck on September 9th at The Honey Coop, and "Buy a sandwich, Build a Garden" over the next month at some of Chicago's leading restaurants.

Chicago's Highest Heirlooms

Chef Partick Sheerin and the team at The Signature Room on the 95th have agreed to join Chicago TomatoFest for the second year in a row!  Chef Pat signed the pledge and tweeted his asian inspired offering via @chefintheory earlier today:

Hickory smoked Bacon, heirlooms, kimchee aoili, steamed buns &summer veg salad for @tomatofest.

Chef Pat Sheerin being interviewed on Vocalo.org
last year at Kendal College.

Chef Patrick Sheerin is a staple at the Green City Market and is a leader in the sustainable community in the Chicago food world, and of course, he is a phenomenal cook!  Take a listen to the interview Chef Pat gave to Vocalo.org last year during Chicago TomatoFest here:  http://vocalo.org/explore/content/48449

Stop by The Signature Room on the 95th  for the highest Heirlooms in Chicago and a stunning view of the city.

For reservations click here.

An open letter to Ruth Reichl from an Urban Garden in Chicago (cc: Josh Viertel, President of Slow Food USA)

Dear Ms. Reichl,

So glad that the combo of the lake and spicy beef seduced you this morning.  As a small garden in "The Second City" I'm flattered that you, a national figure and prominent New Yorker enjoyed your stay enough to tweet your love for my city :  "Sparkling Chicago morning. Walking along the lake munching spicy beef bao. Mouth on fire. Love this city. Such swell food - so little time." (@ruthreichl)

Sweet Potatoes and peas at the preSERVES
garden in North Lawndale.

That you sought out something spicy probably means you visited Argyle St. and were walking along the beach near Lawrence, am I right?  Good for you for getting out of the loop and using your time to explore a slightly less beaten path.  Another national figure and prominent foodie from New York, Josh Viertel, President of Slow Food USA, was in town this week and he too was initially drawn to the Asian flavors our city does so well on the north side too, tweeting  "Insane dinner at #bellyshack with my sister in Chicago. She knows where to go! My lord. Look out David Chang..."  (@joshviertel) 

Slow Food USA President Josh Viertel (left) with
Mr. Gerald Earles, Slum Busting Gardener since 1962.

I hear the food up there is wonderful.  Food's wonderful down here, south of 290, in North Lawndale too.  Seen from a car window travelling on Roosevelt Road, we look like a blueprint for the type of food desert in Chicago that NPR's Natalie Moore just profiled, but let me tell you, in mid August when my Crowder peas and Sweet Potatoes are so plentiful it takes a team to harvest, there is more hope than sand in my corner of town.  Come down next time your in town and meet Mr.and Mrs. Earles who have been busting slums with their gardens in this area since 1962.  Come meet Dr. and Mrs. Israel who are the current heads of the North Lawndale Greening Committee and who work with gardens, volunteers and families all around the neighborhood including at the Millennium Garden / Honey Coop space.  Come to the Chicago Honey Coop, where some of the city's best honey is produced by folks whose efforts and intentions go so far beyond food production.  Come to meet the people featured in this video tour of the area's gardens, which is worth watching more than once, especially if you've never met someone fighting to green a desert, one neighborhood garden at a time.  

Just come.  There is something special going on here in North Lawndale.  The people who have been defending the food traditions in their community for so long deserve a tweet or two themselves.  Next time you see Josh in New York, ask him about The Earles and all the other people he met, the stories they told, and the food they shared, then come see for yourself.  We'll save some sweet potatoes for you.

Yours,

The preSERVES garden at 12th and Central Park in Chicago

Editor's note:

All proceeds from Chicago TomatoFest 2010 will go towards completing the garden at 12th and Central Park.  We aim to provide funds to build a shed and a fence and provide tools needed for upkeep.  Food grown in the garden is shared with the community by the North Lawndale Greening Committee with a focus on school lunch programs.  preSERVES is a program started by Slow Food Chicago in coordination with Neighbor-Space and the North Lawndale Greening Committee.  $0.50 will be donated by participating restaurants from every "Old School BLT" sold between Aug 23 and Sept 19th. "Buy a Sandwich, Build a Garden!"   Our annual Heirloom TomatoFest at the Chicago Honey Coop will be held on September 9th.

Homegrown Tomatoes

On January 14th in Chicago, the lyric "Winter without 'em is a culinary bummer" rings true a little more than I'd like.  Good thing it's just about time to find my seed catalogues and start planning Chicago TomatoFest 2010!

Michael Nagrant on Winter Tomatoes

I was encouraged to see criticism of the use of fresh tomatoes in December by Michael Nagrant over on New City.  Just as I feel like we should celebrate those who go out of their way to serve and support local farms in the summer, I am pleased to see that critics are tuned into misplaced tomatoes in the winter.  Read his post here.  While he is writing about a restaurant that has aspirations of and a pedigree that predicts greatness, his comments ring true at for so many spots that I think they are worth sharing. 

You might also look at his post on the Dill Pickle Coop that just opened in Lincoln Square.  Congrats to all the Coop members who have made this project happen!  http://dillpicklefoodcoop.org/

Bye Bye BLTs!

As the days get cooler, fall approaches and the end of the first annual BLT Bonanza is upon us! Tomorrow will be your last chance to snag one of these tasty treats from most of the participating restaurants-- that is, except for Uncommon Ground. They will keep serving their awesome BLT as long as their rooftop gardens keep producing heirloom tomatoes.
We'd also like to send out a huge thanks to all those restaurants who decided to put their resources toward an important cause and join the Bonanza! They have helped us start what will hopefully become a tradition, supporting and endorsing healthy, eco-friendly and obviously delicious local produce that's available in Chicago. We could not have done it without them.